Gargoyle Flake – the Severe climber

Bouldering in Fontainebleau with a Toddler

The woods around Fontainebleau have a reputation as one of the best places in the world to boulder. Thousands of sandstone boulders, with tens of thousands of boulder problems, scattered about a pretty forest that covers some 300 square kilometres. Fontainebleau also has a reputation as being a great place to take kids. That’s a … Read more Bouldering in Fontainebleau with a Toddler

Climbing a Cathedral and Ringing the Bell on the Klettersteig Pfeilspitzwand

A little over half way up the Klettersteig Pfeilspitzwand there is a brass bell hanging from the rock. If you want to ring the bell, then you need to take a detour that traverses the face of the buttress above a sheer drop. There’s a slightly tricky step to negotiate, before you stand on a … Read more Climbing a Cathedral and Ringing the Bell on the Klettersteig Pfeilspitzwand

A Little Bit of the Eiger – the Rotstock Via Ferrata

“All the Grindelwald via ferrata are closed.” The woman at the tourist information office said these words in a firm, brisk tone that indicated that she didn’t realise that I would find them disappointing. I knew that there was a risk that the long, cold winter might mean that some mountain routes would still be … Read more A Little Bit of the Eiger – the Rotstock Via Ferrata

Spring Climbing

Spring Climbing

May 19, 2016May 19, 2016the Severe climber

My climbing trips this Spring have had cold winds, some bright sun and (thankfully) no rain. This has given me the chance to really get back into climbing on rock and to do some great climbs. It feels like I’ve warmed up for the rest of my climbing year.

My first trad lead of 2016 on Recess Crack (VDiff) at Bamford Edge.

My first trad lead of 2016 on Recess Crack (VDiff) at Bamford Edge.

Climbing the absolutely brilliant Gargoyle Flake (VS, 4c) at Bamford Edge.

Climbing the absolutely brilliant Gargoyle Flake (VS, 4c) at Bamford Edge.

Climbing the boulder problem Big Slab Right (V0+, 5a) on a wonderfully sunny day at Higgar Tor.

Climbing the boulder problem Big Slab Right (V0+, 5a) on a wonderfully sunny day at Higgar Tor.

Hound Tor and Haytor

Hound Tor and Haytor

The Dewerstone

The Dewerstone

Me on the top of the pinnacle on Pinnacle Buttress at Dewerstone (thanks to Peter for the photo).

Me on the top of the pinnacle on Pinnacle Buttress at Dewerstone (thanks to Peter for the photo).

A busy Spring day at Stanage Popular end.

A busy Spring day at Stanage Popular end.

The BMC Guidebook describes this climb (Mantlepiece RIght, HVD) as a "bit steep and scary." The scary bit probably comes from how hard it is to get a second piece of gear in, but I finally managed it.

The BMC Guidebook describes this climb (Mantlepiece RIght, HVD) as a “bit steep and scary.” The scary bit probably comes from how hard it is to get a second piece of gear in, but I finally managed it.

Climbing the fun Monkey Crack (VDiff) at Stanage.

Climbing the fun Monkey Crack (VDiff) at Stanage.

Climbing Monkey Crack (VDiff) at Stanage.

Climbing Monkey Crack (VDiff) at Stanage.

Climbing Monkey Crack (VDiff) at Stanage.

Climbing Monkey Crack (VDiff) at Stanage.