Trying out the new North Wales Bouldering guidebook

It was a fantastic coincidence. I was due to go on a weekend climbing trip to North Wales and on the Monday before my trip the new North Wales Bouldering guidebook was published. I’d been waiting a long time for this book.

Me climbing an unnamed 4C problem on the Wavelength Boulder in Llanberis Pass, while Katrina spots me.

The first edition had been out of print for years and it seemed that only the quick and lucky (and possibly wealthy) could buy a 2nd hand copy. From reading the periodic UKClimbing threads asking when the next edition would be published, I had the tantalising impression that the reason the second edition was still not available was because the author, Simon Panton, just kept finding more and more bouldering delights in North Wales that he could not leave out. Read more

What They Don’t Tell You In the Guidebook – Wobblestone Crack

Me climbing Wobblestone Crack at Burbage in the Peak District.
Me climbing Wobblestone Crack at Burbage in the Peak District.

Well, the clue is in the name.  You can’t really start out on this climb unaware that some bit of rock is going to wobble when you hold on to it.  However, some of the wobbly rocks are more obvious than others and the guidebook doesn’t mention the most important of them. Read more

What they don’t tell you in the guidebook – Pinnacle Ridge, Polldubh crags

I think this route is missing a tree.  The guidebook says there are three trees, but I only found two.  This made Pinnacle Ridge surprisingly confusing.

Me climbing Pinnacle Ridge, Polldubh crags, Glen Nevis, Scotland

Pinnacle Ridge is a two-pitch, Severe graded rock climb at Polldubh crags in Glen Nevis in the Scottish Highlands.  It’s a lovely and interesting climb and it feels justified that the guidebook (Scottish Rock, Volume 1, South by Gary Latter) gives it two out of four stars.  The route pretty much follows the crest of the buttress and so I thought route finding would be easy.  However, I was trying to judge the exact positions of rock features by refer to trees. Read more

What they don’t tell you in the guidebook – Craig yr Aderyn

Rock climbing guide books are an invaluable resource and are essential to ensure that you don’t end up climbing the wrong route or no route at all (both of which can be scary and/or dangerous).  Unfortunately, the features of the routes that guide books describe do sometimes change.   The route descriptions in the books also need to be quite brief and this lack of detail can sometimes lead to you being surprised by some aspect of a route.  For these reasons, I am starting a regular series of posts on “what they don’t tell you in the guide book.”  The first such post is about Craig yr Aderyn.

The Bastion face on Craig yr Aderyn. The route The Buttress runs diagonally up from the bottom right of the face.

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