Open Handed

Injuries have forced me to examine how I climb and to start thinking about how to change my climbing technique so that I reduce the chance of injury. It was a knee injury that originally got me thinking, but recently problems with my hands have jolted me into really looking at the grips I use. I’ve realised that I rely too much on crimping and that I need to use an open-hand grip more if I want to be minimise hand injuries. However, I’ve been struggling to get this grip right and it was only a coaching session a few weeks ago that helped me understand that using an open-hand grip is about much more than what you do with your hands. Continue reading Open Handed

the Severe climberDecember 19, 2015May 5, 202311 Comments

Gear, Rock climbing

A Cut Above – Arc’teryx Straibo Hoody Review

The Straibo Hoody from Arc’teryx has the style to work well as a casual hoody and the technical features to perform brilliantly as a hoody for bouldering. Continue reading A Cut Above – Arc’teryx Straibo Hoody Review

the Severe climberDecember 5, 2015May 5, 20233 Comments

Hiking, Rock climbing

Climbing a Wet Badger

Badger Rock is a famous boulder that I’d been eager to climb for years. Its reputation is built on providing great climbing, across a range of grades, in a picturesque, quiet Lake District valley. Continue reading Climbing a Wet Badger

the Severe climberOctober 31, 2015May 5, 20234 Comments

Rock climbing

In his Stride

I didn’t know how Leo was going to feel about his first camping trip last weekend. He’s not yet two years old and being taken away from his home and routine to spend a long weekend camped in a field at night and bouldering in the day might have been a bit too much for him. My main concern was that he would be nervous of the tent. Continue reading In his Stride

the Severe climberJuly 24, 2015May 6, 20239 Comments

Rock climbing

Fontainetoddler

As first-time parents, Valerie and I have had to work out as we go along how to continue to rock climb while also being Mum and Dad to Leo. Last year we had a fun and successful trip to the legendary bouldering venue of Fontainebleau with a teething baby. This year we went back with an energetic (and teething) toddler. Here’s what we learned the hard way so you don’t have to. Continue reading Fontainetoddler

the Severe climberJuly 2, 2015May 6, 20238 Comments

Rock climbing

Learning to Climb Smarter

My main priority in my return to rock climbing is to build up my strength and develop my climbing technique in a way that reduces the chance of injuring myself again. To do this I need to reassess how I climb. My hope is that if I do this now, I can stop slipping back into any bad habits as well as stop new bad habits developing. I decided that the best way to do this was to get an expert to assess my climbing and coach me on what to do to improve it. Continue reading Learning to Climb Smarter

the Severe climberJune 1, 2015May 6, 20236 Comments

Rock climbing

Mostly Yellow in Fontainebleau

If it were not for bad customer service, I wouldn’t have been bouldering at Fontainebleau this week. On my first trip to Fontainebleau a year ago I tore the meniscus in my right knee while pulling hard on a heel hook. Since surgery on the knee, I’ve been trying to get back into climbing in a way that is slow, gentle and careful enough to avoid injury. Bouldering outside on boulders that often have sloping holds and rounded top-outs wasn’t necessarily what I would have picked as my reintroduction to climbing on real rock. Continue reading Mostly Yellow in Fontainebleau

the Severe climberMay 23, 2015May 6, 20239 Comments

Rock climbing

Back on Plastic

I’ve taken my first steps back into climbing following surgery on my injured knee. They’re just small steps at my local climbing wall, because I worry that anything else will see me injure myself again or at least slow down my recovery. My physio was clear about how to not hurt myself – avoid jumping down or falling off from boulder problems until my legs … Continue reading Back on Plastic

the Severe climberMay 13, 201512 Comments

Rock climbing

One Year On

I was unlucky, uninformed and an idiot. It was near the end of our second day of my first bouldering trip to Fontainebleau and I was with a group climbing just a few more problems before it got too dark and late. Some of the group had climbed this tricky problem up the flat front of a split boulder and I wanted to do it too. It was different, a challenge and looked fun. This was partly because completing the problem required a right heel hook and I don’t do heel hooks often. Continue reading One Year On

the Severe climberApril 24, 2015May 6, 202322 Comments

Gear, Mountaineering, Rock climbing

Climb On Adventure Bar and Creme Lite Review

My hands dry out and can crack like the bed of a river in a drought when the weather is cold or wet and when I’ve had my hands in climbing chalk. This means I’ve taken an interest in the balms and moisturisers designed to keep a rock climber’s hands in good condition and reviewed a few of them before. Recently I’ve been trying out the Climb On Adventure Bar and Climb On Crème Lite, made by SKINourishment of Texas using natural and food grade ingredients. Continue reading “Climb On Adventure Bar and Creme Lite Review”

the Severe climberMarch 28, 20154 Comments

Gear, Rock climbing

A Beta Balm?

Rock climbing isn’t kind to hands. Thankfully, there are quite a few balms available that aim to revitalise, repair and moisturise the cracked, parched and cut mess a climber’s hands can become if they are not shown some loving care. I reviewed some of these balms a while ago and gave the highest score to Climb On balm. Now I’ve come across another balm that is right up there with it.

Beta Balm is made by Simplici from Chattanooga in Tennessee. Simplici describes Beta Balm as “a powerful herbal moisturizer formulated to naturally rejuvenate dry, cracked, sore and irritated skin.” Continue reading “A Beta Balm?”

the Severe climberJanuary 24, 2015January 24, 201513 Comments

Hiking, Mountaineering, Rock climbing

My Climbing 2014 in Pictures

My best photos from my climbing and hiking adventures in 2014. Continue reading My Climbing 2014 in Pictures

the Severe climberDecember 30, 2014May 6, 20232 Comments

Rock climbing

Pootling Around The Roaches

One of the things I like about bouldering is that it’s great when all you want to do is pootle. That’s all I wanted to do last weekend at The Roaches. I had a creeping cold that was developing a cough. The gritstone was green, wet and strong, blustery winds made sitting belaying at the top of a crag look a bit unappealing. So I spent my time wandering around the boulders, doing low-grade routes that looked interesting and weren’t so slimy and wet that my feet would skate off them. Continue reading Pootling Around The Roaches

the Severe climberOctober 26, 2014May 6, 2023Leave a comment

Rock climbing

Pod, Tor and Bude

In the year and a bit since Valerie and I became parents we’ve been slowly and carefully been working out how our young family can spend time climbing and walking. We started with visits to the climbing wall before moving on to bouldering and walking trips in which we stayed in hotels and hostels. Last weekend we took the big step of taking Leo camping for the first time. Although, to be honest, it might be more accurate to say that we took the baby step of taking him glamping for the first time. Continue reading Pod, Tor and Bude

the Severe climberOctober 16, 2014May 6, 20232 Comments