It’s common for rock climbers to drink alcohol after climbing. It’s also common for rock climbers to go climbing the morning after drinking alcohol. If done in moderation and sensibly, this can be fine. But it can also be unsafe and affect climbing performance both in the short and long-term. Continue reading Rock the morning after
It’s hard to write about Builders Bars without sounding like an advert. They may only be protein bars, but they are great protein bars. They are also brilliantly convenient if you want to recover after rock climbing and don’t want the hassle of protein powder drinks. Continue reading In praise of Builders Bars
Earlier this week equipment manufacturer Edelrid issued a product recall for a selection of their via ferrata lanyards. This recall follows a fatal via ferrata accident a couple of weeks ago. Apparently, investigations have so far established an association between increased use of these lanyards and a weakening of their elasticated webbing. As the Edelrid lanyards involved in this accident had apparently been rented, it is quite possible that they had seen greater than usual use. However, the actual cause of the accident has not yet been established and Edelrid have issued the product recall as a precaution. Continue reading Totally Recalled
Well, after two years following Robin up crags and cliffs, we decided that 2012 would be the year I would learn to lead. Aside from the fact that it’s frankly rather cool, I had several reasons I wanted to progress to leading. Firstly, I wanted to start pulling my own weight in our climbing partnership, we both want to have a stab at longer multi-pitch routes where leading through is necessary, and lastly, you haven’t really experienced trad climbing until you’ve been reduced to a quivering wreck… Continue reading Learning to lead
Earlier this week, with waves of rain sweeping over North Wales ruling outdoors rock climbing out, my fiancée and I decided to try the new Beacon Climbing Centre near Caernarfon. We were impressed. Continue reading Review of the new Beacon Climbing Centre
Whether it’s due to excess brains or empty space, I have a larger than average head. This makes it hard to find any headwear that fits. Anything marked “one size fits all” does not seem to include me in the definition of “all”. This might be only an annoyance if I were not a rock climber. I need a helmet to protect my head from falling rocks, dropped bits of gear, impacts and banging my head against overhangs (which is a habit of mine). If a helmet is to protect my head properly, then it has to fit properly. Unfortunately, my big head means that the selection of helmets that will fit me is small. Continue reading Helmets for Big Heads
It’s usually true that greater rock climbing experience results in increased rock climbing competence. However, I worry that there are a small minority of climbers for whom greater rock climbing experience leads to increased risk-taking and occasional bad practice. What this demonstrates to me is a need to keep an open, questioning mind about my own climbing practice. Continue reading The danger of experience
There are times when there is no doubt that you should tell someone that they’re not properly equipped for a day in the mountains and should turn back. One example of this happened earlier this month when a stag party attempted to climb Snowdon dressed in pyjamas and trainers, in a storm and by the scrambling route of Crib Goch. Unsurprisingly, this stag party got into trouble and had to be talked down by phone by mountain rescue. Continue reading Turning Around the Men in Pyjamas
Clear communication between climbers is a vital part of climbing safely. When two climbers are far apart, out of sight of each other or the wind is strong, then shouting is the usual way to communicate climbing commands and it usually works. However, for those occasions when it doesn’t, I would recommend having walkie-talkies to hand. Continue reading There’s no need to shout: using walkie-talkies when rock climbing
My wonderful and talented fiancee has made rock climbing toppers for our wedding cake. There is a little me belaying from the top of the cake while a topper of my fiancee climbs up. The toppers are made of different colours of FIMO modelling clay worked around a wire frame, baked in the oven and then varnished. My fiancee is amazing. Continue reading Rock climbing wedding cake toppers
Pinnacle Ridge is a two-pitch, Severe graded rock climb at Polldubh crags in Glen Nevis in the Scottish Highlands. It’s a lovely and interesting climb and it feels justified that the guidebook (Scottish Rock, Volume 1, South by Gary Latter) gives it two out of four stars. The route pretty much follows the crest of the buttress and so I thought route finding would be easy. However, I was trying to judge the exact positions of rock features by refer to trees. Continue reading What they don’t tell you in the guidebook – Pinnacle Ridge, Polldubh crags
I came across the following definitions by accident when I was researching rock climbing in Spain on the website www.andalucia.com. These definitions made me smile and so I thought I should share them. Continue reading A definition of rock climbing
Rock climbing guide books are an invaluable resource and are essential to ensure that you don’t end up climbing the wrong route or no route at all (both of which can be scary and/or dangerous). Unfortunately, the features of the routes that guide books describe do sometimes change. The route descriptions in the books also need to be quite brief and this lack of detail can sometimes lead to you being surprised by some aspect of a route. For these reasons, I am starting a regular series of posts on “what they don’t tell you in the guide book.” Continue reading What they don’t tell you in the guidebook – Craig yr Aderyn
the Severe climber 