A Two-Day Walk from the Settle-Carlisle Railway – Part Two

I didn’t get any sleep. Strong winds had pummelled my little tent all night while rain had beaten down on it. The noise and the violent movement of the tent walls were too much, and sleep didn’t come. By about 5am, I was wondering if I might as well get up. After about another half an hour of procrastinating about getting out of my warm sleeping bag, I managed to motivate myself to start getting ready for the second day of my walk. Apart from a navigation mistake, the first day had been enjoyable. Despite my lack of sleep and the longer distance I would have to go, I was optimistic about this second day of walking. Unfortunately, this would turn out not to be the best start to a day of walking and this morning involved the main challenges of my two-day trip. Continue reading A Two-Day Walk from the Settle-Carlisle Railway – Part Two

A Two-Day Walk from the Settle-Carlisle Railway – Part One

My idea was to base a two-day walk around the Settle-Carlisle Railway that runs through the Yorkshire Dales and the North Pennines. This is one of the most famous and scenic rail routes in the UK, and I’d been wanting to take a journey on it for some time. By taking a train to one of the stations on the Settle-Carlisle line, I could get into the heart of the Yorkshire Dales without needing a car. I could then walk into the Dales for an overnight camp in an attractive, remote spot, with the possibility of some great stargazing. The next day I’d walk to another station on the Settle-Carlisle line to catch a train towards home. After some research, I decided that I would head to Ribblehead station in Ribblesdale and then walk over the moor to Nethergill Farm campsite in Langstrothdale. The following day I’d carry on down Langstrothdale as far as the hamlet of Beckermonds, where I’d turn west to traverse the Greenfield valley, go over Birkwith Moor, and then along the Pennine Way to Horton-in-Ribblesdale station. It seemed like a good plan, but, as can happen, things did not go entirely as I had hoped.

Continue reading “A Two-Day Walk from the Settle-Carlisle Railway – Part One”

The Spectacular North-East Ridge of Y Garn

I sated some of my mountain lust during the third pandemic lockdown by studying the recently published guidebook Snowdonia: Mountain Walks and Scrambles, which I had been given for Christmas. I looked longingly at the many colour photos of Welsh mountains and the routes up them that it describes. The guidebook gave me a chance to remember fondly days I’d spent in those mountains, and to dream of walks that I had not yet done. One route caught my attention and imagination more than the others – the North-East Ridge of Y Garn. The guidebook gave it three stars (out of three) and described it as “One of the finest walking ridges in Snowdonia.” This route somehow had passed me by even though I had literally passed by this ridge many times. I wrote the name and page number of the entry for this route on a scrap of paper, along with the details of the other routes that interested me. I then put this note between the pages of the guidebook for use when a global pandemic wasn’t preventing me from getting to the mountains. Continue reading The Spectacular North-East Ridge of Y Garn

This Should Have Been Frustrating

I doubt that I’ve ever climbed so consistently poorly. Despite choosing to climb only easy problems, everything felt challenging, and nothing came easily. I failed to do boulder problems that I could have done in the past, and only managed to complete one problem. It should have been a frustrating trip to Brimham Rocks, and yet I had a good time. Continue reading This Should Have Been Frustrating

Not Quite A Walk Around Scar House and Angram Reservoirs

I felt a bit despondent as I read the sign saying that one of the bridges at the top end of Angram Reservoir was closed. No reason was given, but the reason didn’t really matter. If I couldn’t get over the River Nidd where it flowed into the reservoir, then I was not going to be able to complete my planned walk around Scar House and Angram Reservoirs. I thought about heading somewhere else, but decided that I would head out as I had intended, see what I found, and change my plan if I needed to. I was keen to do this walk, and the reasons I was keen didn’t change simply because a bridge was shut. Continue reading Not Quite A Walk Around Scar House and Angram Reservoirs

A Walk Through the Mining History of Nidderdale

This was a short walk through the rich geological landscape and mining heritage in the Greenhow area of Nidderdale which took in the modern Coldstones Quarry and the extensive remains of abandoned lead mines. It also involved visits to a giant work of art, a huge lime kiln, and a couple of Robert Thompson’s mice. This was a lovely walk, that was full of interesting sights, but which came with a worrying encounter. Continue reading A Walk Through the Mining History of Nidderdale

Linking Together Some of the Best of Wharfedale

A few weeks ago, I was puzzling over where to go for a walk. I wanted to do something new, but I’d ruled out doing several of the routes on my “to do” list of hikes in the Yorkshire Dales because I wanted to do them when the conditions were better. After looking over my maps for a while trying to decide which walk I might repeat, I realised that the most interesting option would be to bring together in one hike the highlights of a few different walks. It would be like doing a dot-to-dot puzzle of great limestone features in Wharfedale. This I could do by walking a loop that started and ended in the town of Grassington, and which took in a waterfall, a strid, a gorge, and plenty of limestone pavement. Continue reading Linking Together Some of the Best of Wharfedale

A Quiet Sunday Morning at Brimham Rocks

I think every rock climber knows that strong urge to get outside and climb. It’s a compulsion that gets stronger the longer you’ve been away. It intensifies on those days when the weather is good, and you can’t take advantage of the opportunities that it provides. It bothers you when you think about that route or problem that you’ve been wanting to get up for some time. Last weekend it was an urge that was sufficiently strong for me to ignore the tail-end of a cold and head to Brimham Rocks. Continue reading A Quiet Sunday Morning at Brimham Rocks

Never Had I Ever…Walked Up Cat Bells

In none of my many visits to the Lake District had I ever walked up Cat Bells. I don’t think I ever consciously decided to not set foot on this fell. It’s more likely that an underlying desire to avoid crowded mountains meant that walking up the incredibly popular Cat Bells never occurred to me. Yet, it’s the very things that make Cat Bells well-liked that are the reasons I chose it as the first Lake District fell for my son to climb. Continue reading Never Had I Ever…Walked Up Cat Bells

A Quiet Sunday Morning at Little Almscliff

A few months ago, I walked around the small crag of Little Almscliff. I’d climbed a lot at Almscliff and wanted to see what bouldering on its diminutive namesake offered. It was clear that Little Almscliff has a lot of interesting and easier climbing, as well as great views and a short walk-in. However, I’d not been back because I had been focused on my walking project, and a rainy summer had limited my opportunities to get out. Last Sunday, my wife, son and I wanted some quiet climbing and time in the countryside, and so decided to head to Little Almscliff. Continue reading A Quiet Sunday Morning at Little Almscliff