Roaches and Newstones Bouldering

Roaches and Newstones Bouldering

the Severe climber

I’ve been climbing at the Roaches many times and never bothered to look at the other climbing venues just next door.  The Roaches is just so big and has so much great climbing that I never felt the need.  I did some brilliant bouldering there on Saturday, climbing problems I had wanted to do for a while and pushing my grade a little.  Unfortunately,  the weather forecast for Sunday morning showed that it would begin and end with showers (plus “the chance of thunder”).  I therefore looked through my guidebook for a bouldering venue with a very short walk-in so that I could walk-out quickly if need be and I found Newstones.  It’s a small series of boulders and little buttresses a few miles from the Roaches.  The rock has great friction and some strange veins running through it that I’ve never seen before on gritstone and which made for sharp edges and flakes.  This helped make the bouldering interesting, varied and fun.  Despite the great climbing and a pleasant location, Max and I had the place to ourselves the whole time we were there.

This weekend showed me that the big climbing venues are brilliant, but that I need to flick through the pages of my guidebooks more.

Me trying to climb Easy Groove (V0 4c) on The Grooves boulder at the Roaches. Seconds after this photo was taken my left foot slipped and I flew off the rock.
Climbing Joe’s Portholes (V0+ 5a) on Joe’s Boulder at the Roaches.
Me climbing the fun problem Slab Dancer (V0+ 5a) on the Upper Tier of the Roaches. The problems along here involve stopping and coming back down again before the climb turns from being a boulder problem into a solo rock climb.
The Upper Tier of the Roaches.
Me reaching the top of the Arch (V0+ 5a) problem on Pine Tree Slab on the Lower Tier of the Roaches.
Climbing Easy Slab Right-hand (VB) on the Top Block boulder at Newstones.
This is me trying to work out the best way of getting from the good footholds I’m standing on to the good hand holds at the top. The problem is Nutmeg (V0 4c) on the Hazel Barn boulder at Newstones.
Newstones crag in Staffordshire.
Me climbing Clammy Wall (V0 4c) on the Clammy Hands boulder at Newstones.
Stronghold Climbing Centre review

Stronghold Climbing Centre review

the Severe climber

The Stonghold Climbing Centre has a cool name and describes itself as London’s largest indoor bouldering space. But is it any good?

Me climbing at the Stronghold Climbing Centre.

London’s newest climbing wall is hidden away down a quiet street a few minutes walk from Tottenham Hale station. The Stronghold Climbing Centre is housed in an old warehouse that had previously been home to a charity recycling and reusing domestic furniture and appliances. These workshops have been replaced with a big, open and light climbing space and a range of good facilities. Read more →

Giddy Joint, Tendon and Muscle Balm review

Giddy Joint, Tendon and Muscle Balm review

the Severe climber

Giddy Joint, Tendon and Muscle Balm aims to help sooth the pain and tenderness you can get from climbing hard. It’s made with natural ingredients and has a kick of menthol. I’ve been trying it out to see if it keeps my hands in good shape.

Giddy Joint and Tendon Balm at Fontainebleau.

The idea is that applying Giddy Joint, Tendon and Muscle Balm relieves pain, stiffness or tenderness in muscles, joints and tendons affected by overuse and/or injury. A combination of natural (and nearly all organic) ingredients is meant to sink into the skin to help sooth and heal. Read more →

Back in the Woods – Bouldering in Fontainebleau

Back in the Woods – Bouldering in Fontainebleau

the Severe climber

I love bouldering at Fontainebleau.  There are so many wonderful things about it.  All those boulders scattered through a pretty wood.  A stunning amount of climbing, in a wide variety of forms and often on boulders that weird, beautiful or both.   The different characters of the climbing areas.  The feeling of community among the climbers.   The inland beaches that make for good landings and nice places to have a picnic.   That it’s a giant, wooded playground for kids (more about that in my next post).

Fontainebleau’s not somewhere I get the chance to go very often and I always leave wanting to go back.

Me climbing problem 2 (Second Classe) on the orange circuit at Roche aux Sabots.
The Roche aux Sabots sector in the Trois Pignons area of Fontainebleau forest.
Me getting some chalk while climbing the pocket-filled orange 13 problem at Roche aux Sabots.
Me trying to do the crimping and smearing start of problem 7 on the orange circuit at Roche aux Sabots. This photo was taken by my 3 year old son.
The Canche aux Merciers area of Fontainebleau forest.
Traversing on problem 9 on the yellow circuit at Canche aux Merciers.
Climbing problem number 12 on the yellow circuit at Canche aux Merciers.
A creepy looking boulder in the Canche aux Merciers area of the Fontainebleau forest.

UPDATE: 19 May 2019 – I’ve written an expanded blog post about bouldering at Fontainebleau with a toddler that uses my experiences of this and earlier trips.

A Little Bit Green Around the Edges

A Little Bit Green Around the Edges

the Severe climber

Climbing in the Peak District at this time of year usually means three things for me. Hoping that it won’t be raining so that I can actually climb. Trying to avoid climbing on rock covered in damp, green lichen that it’s easy for my hand or foot to slip off.   Plus, climbing at a level that I can manage and enjoy when I either have a cold or am recovering from one.

Climbing One Inch Arete (VB 4a) in the Little Quarry at Curbar Edge.

The rain that had poured down on the Peak District last Friday disappeared by Saturday to leave clear skies and brilliant sunshine.   It was great weather for bouldering and I was really pleased that I could try out bouldering at Curbar Edge for the first time. Read more →

My Climbing 2016 in Pictures

My Climbing 2016 in Pictures

the Severe climber
Me in Coire na Ciste on my first day of the course.
Me in a bucket seat that I had dug and attached to a buried axe.
Walking through Worthy Wood.
Climbing the absolutely brilliant Gargoyle Flake (VS, 4c) at Bamford Edge.
Climbing the boulder problem Big Slab Right (V0+, 5a) on a wonderfully sunny day at Higgar Tor.
Me on the top of the pinnacle on Pinnacle Buttress at Dewerstone (thanks to Peter for the photo).
Climbing Monkey Crack (VDiff) at Stanage.
Bouldering on the Marsh Boulder at the RAC Boulders.
Me on the summit ridge of Eldir Fawr.
Leading Wall Corner (HVD, 4a) at Burbage.
Me leading Hollybush Gully Right Direct (Severe, 4a) at Stanage.
Bouldering above the beach of Lon Isallt Bay.
Me learning how to do a hoist
Me climbing on The Cube boulder at Bonehill.
Me climbing The Runnel problem at Hound Tor.
Walking on The Black Mountain.

 

1 Day Wet and 1 Day Dry Walking in the Brecon Beacons

1 Day Wet and 1 Day Dry Walking in the Brecon Beacons

the Severe climber

 

I may not have been able to see very far on my walk up The Black Mountain (Y Mynydd Du) last Saturday, but I could still enjoy looking at the pretty colours of the grass.
Walking on The Black Mountain.
Marcus crossing Afon Twrch on The Black Mountain.
The Black Mountain and Fan Brycheiniog.
Broken limestone near Castell y Geifr.
On Sunday my circular walk over some of the classic peaks in the Brecon Beacons started by walking through Cwm Llwch.
The sun broke through the cloud as I walked along a ridge towards the summit of Corn Du.
The mountains looked very pretty when the cloud cleared enough to see the summits of Pen y Fan and Corn Du.
The view back to Llyn Cwm Llwch and Cwm Llwch from the side of Corn Du.
After climbing Corn Du, it was up and then down Pen y Fan.
Then up again on to Cribyn, which is where I got this view of Fan y Big. Frustratingly, something had gone a bit wrong with my knee and I was in a lot of pain and so I decided not to walk up Fan y Big that day and head back to the car.
Bone and Hound Bouldering

Bone and Hound Bouldering

the Severe climber

 

Leo climbing on Baby Slab at Bonehill.
Bonehill on Dartmoor.
The sun managing to stay out as I climb on the Warm-Up boulder at Bonehill.
Leo climbing on the Warm-Up boulder at Bonehill with Josh spotting him.
Me climbing on The Cube boulder at Bonehill.
Josh gets ready to make the final move on a problem on The Cube boulder at Bonehill.
Me climbing on The Perched Block at Hound Tor on Dartmoor..
Leo climbing on The Perched Block, with Josh spotting him. If you look closely, it seems like Josh’s shadow is giving Leo a helping hand.
Me climbing boulder problem The Runnel (3+) at Hound Tor.
Leo climbing The Runnel on the Top Hat boulder at Hound Tor.
This was a really fun problem, but it was much easier to get up than it was to get down again from the block at the top.
Helmets for Big Heads 2

Helmets for Big Heads 2

the Severe climber

Whether it’s due to excess brains or empty space, I have a larger than average head. This makes it hard to find headwear that fits. Anything marked “one size fits all” does not include me in the definition of “all”. This might be only an annoyance if I were not a rock climber. I need a helmet to protect my head from falling rocks, dropped bits of gear, smacking my head into a cliff when falling off and banging my head against overhangs (which is a habit of mine). If a helmet is to protect my head properly, then it has to fit properly. Unfortunately, there is only a small selection of helmets that will fit my big head.

Me climbing at Stanage in the Salewa Vega helmet.
Me climbing at Stanage in the Salewa Vega helmet.

My head is a bit over 62cm in circumference but most climbing helmets on the market only go up to a circumference of 61cm. I don’t think I’m the only climber whose head is bigger than 61cm in circumference and so I have written the following helmet guide for climbers with generous heads. Read more →

(Re)learning Self-Rescue

(Re)learning Self-Rescue

the Severe climber

My self-rescue skills became rusty because I never got into the sort of trouble where they would be needed. That’s definitely a good thing.  My self-rescue skills also became rusty because I never practiced them and didn’t get refresher training as often as I should have.  That’s definitely a bad thing.  The self-rescue course I did at the weekend highlighted for me just how risky it had been leaving it so long to get a refresher.  There were so many aspects of the rope work that I had forgotten and other aspects that I wasn’t particularly confident on.   The instructors were great at talking me through the steps of a variety of techniques and putting them to use in different scenarios on the rock.  I feel more confident about self-rescue now and determined to practice it more often (although, only in pretend situations).

Me practising tying off a belay.
A view of Hathersage from Lawrencefield, where I did the first day of the self-rescue course.
Me prussiking up a rope (badly).
Me learning how to do a hoist
Sam abseiling (rappelling) past a knot.
Burbage, where I did the second day of the self-rescue course.
Me abseiling down to check on my climbing partner after having removed myself from the system.
Practising rescue techniques.
Beachside Bouldering on Anglesey

Beachside Bouldering on Anglesey

the Severe climber

Delightful cottage with all mod cons, less than five minutes walk from the beach and a short walk from bouldering in a rocky cove.

OK, the advert for the holiday cottage I rented for my family holiday on Anglesey didn’t read like this. Perhaps the ad should have.   It was great being able to do a little bouldering on the beach and an added selling point for staying in that part of Anglesey.

Warming up with some easy traversing on Lon Isallt Bay.
Bouldering above the beach of Lon Isallt Bay.
Lon Isallt Bay (AKA Porth y Corwgl?).
Bouldering above the beach of Lon Isallt Bay.
Bouldering above the beach of Lon Isallt Bay.
Bouldering on the black rock of Lon Isallt Bay
Bouldering on the little crag above Lon Isallt Bay.
Lon Isallt Bay (AKA Porth y Corwgl?).

It was actually a happy coincidence that I happened to be staying close to a small bouldering venue. It was only after I’d booked the cottage that I found out about the bouldering at Lon Isallt Bay when I was researching the bouldering on Anglesey on UKClimbing.

Lon Isallt Bay is a small, pretty and sheltered cove on the Holy Island part of Anglesey between Porth Dafarch and Trearddur Bay. Read more →

Peak Weekend

Peak Weekend

the Severe climber

What a great weekend of climbing in the Peak District.  I did a selection of varied and interesting climbs, the sun shone (mostly), it wasn’t raining (mostly) and there was enough of a breeze to keep the midges at bay.

Me seconding Ash Tree Crack (VDiff) at Burbage.
Leading Wall Corner (HVD, 4a) at Burbage.
Leading Wall Corner (HVD, 4a) at Burbage.
Me at the start of my lead of Ring Climb (Severe, 4a) at Burbage
Stanage Edge
The Grand Hotel bouldering area and the Goliath’s Groove area of Stanage Edge
Me leading Hollybush Gully Right Direct (Severe, 4a) at Stanage.
Got Giddy – a review of Giddy balms

Got Giddy – a review of Giddy balms

the Severe climber

Giddy produces brilliant balms that manage to pull off the trick of moisturising hands while not weakening calluses.

Giddy Hard Lotion, Balm and Salve.
Giddy Hard Lotion, Balm and Salve.

My son loves opening the mail. It’s probably because there is something intrinsically fun in ripping open envelopes and pulling apart parcels to discover what’s inside. Sometimes he discovers something fun, although mostly he finds a bill for me or yet another request to switch broadband provider.   Recently he enjoyed opening a parcel from North Carolina to find shiny tins of balm from Giddy. Each time we opened up a tin my son would say “that’s lovely!” at the fresh and zinging smell of the balm. Read more →

Finding Somewhere New

Finding Somewhere New

the Severe climber

I really enjoy exploring new climbing venues. They’re not new in the sense that they are untouched (I don’t climb that far off the beaten track). They’re just new to me and that makes them intriguing. That is part of why I enjoyed bouldering at the RAC Boulders in Snowdonia for the first time last weekend. It really felt like a discovery because I’d driven past the RAC Boulders fifty or more times before and never realised they were there.

The Marsh Boulder and the Frontside Boulder at the RAC Boulders.
Me bouldering on the Marsh Boulder at the RAC Boulders.
Bouldering on the Marsh Boulder at the RAC Boulders.
Me on the problem named Scoops (F4) on the Marsh Boulder at the RAC Boulders.

What I found was that the RAC Boulders are brilliant fun. There’s interesting and varied climbing on a couple of boulders with a good selection of lower to middle grade routes (which suits me). It’s also, conveniently, only a few minutes from the road while being surprisingly quiet and tranquil. Read more →