the Severe climber

Rainbows and Waterfalls in Snowdonia

February 17, 2018the Severe climber

A rainbow above Nant y Geauallt, near Capel Curig.

Forecasts of 45mph winds, with gusts up to 65mph, meant that it didn’t seem like a good idea to climb a mountain in Snowdonia last weekend. So I decided to do some fairly low level walks. On the Saturday I walked from Capel Curig to the pass near Crimpiau, and down to Llyn Crafnant. I then walked around the western shore of the lake, before heading over the ridge to Llyn Geirionydd. From there I walked through the woods back to Capel Curig. Every so often bright sunshine broke through to create more rainbows than I have ever seen on a hike. Read more →

My Climbing 2017 in Pictures

December 30, 2017December 28, 2017the Severe climber

Me climbing Bones (V0 4c) at the Cioch Top Boulders at Curbar Edge.

Snow falling on the tops above the Vale of Edale in the Peak District.

Climbing problem number 12 on the yellow circuit at Canche aux Merciers.

Me trying to do the crimping and smearing start of problem 7 on the orange circuit at Roche aux Sabots. This photo was taken by my 3 year old son.

Climbing Eeny (VB 4a) at Stanage Far Right.

Me climbing at the Stronghold Climbing Centre.

Me trying to climb Easy Groove (V0 4c) on The Grooves boulder at the Roaches. Seconds after this photo was taken my left foot slipped and I flew off the rock.

Climbing Joe’s Portholes (V0+ 5a) on Joe’s Boulder at the Roaches.

Me climbing Clammy Wall (V0 4c) on the Clammy Hands boulder at Newstones.

Me climbing an unnamed 4C problem on the Wavelength Boulder in Llanberis Pass, while Katrina spots me.

The Llanberis Pass, with the Wavelength, Pieshop and Utopia bouldering areas on the mountain side.

Me climbing Tiny Slab Left (V1 5b) on The Tiny Slab at Burbage North.

An icy Corn Du in the Brecon Beacons.

Me on the summit of an icy Pen y Fan in the Brecon Beacons.

Sgwd yr Eira (a beautiful waterfall that you can walk behind).

Ice and Waterfalls in the Brecon Beacons

December 18, 2017December 18, 2017the Severe climber

I had a fun weekend of contrasts in the Brecon Beacons, with snow and ice on the tops and waterfalls and rain in the valleys.

The views and the snow got better and better as I walked up Corn Du from the Storey Arms car park. This is a view of Fan Fawr and (in the distance) The Black Mountain.

From the NW ridge of Corn Du you had an amazing view of Llyn Cwm Llwch and the countryside beyond.

Heading up a snowy and icy ridge to the summit of Corn Du.

There was a great view of Pen y Fan from the summit of Corn Du. It lasts for another two minutes after this before the cloud (and a snow flurry) came down.

Me enjoying the snow, ice and trying out my new ski goggles on the way up Cribyn.

Sgwd Clun-Gwyn in the Waterfall Country of the Brecon Beacons.

Sgwd yr Eira (a beautiful waterfall that you can walk behind).

Me standing behind Sgwd yr Eira. I got a lot wetter than the last time I stood here because of the rain and the melting snow on the tops.

Sgwd Gwladus.

Why is the best weather the weekend before?

October 5, 2017the Severe climber

Why does the best weather always seem to happen the weekend before I go on a climbing trip? Sunshine, clear skies and low winds bless the destinations of my long-planned climbing trips on the weekends before I try to go climbing. The weather forecasters often refer to “unseasonably good weather” when talking about those weekends, before going on to say “but the weather will change mid-week.” This means that by the time I try to go climbing the weather is rainy, unsettled, changeable or in some other way not really ideal for rock climbing. That preceding weekend feels like a teaser of what might have been. It makes not being able to climb because it’s raining that little bit more annoying.

Me climbing Route 3 (VB 4a) on The Chant section of Burbage North.

This is what happened last weekend. A weekend of good weather in the Peak District was followed by an intermittently rainy weekend. After a couple of abortive attempts, Read more →

Trying out the new North Wales Bouldering guidebook

August 18, 2017August 23, 2017the Severe climber

It was a fantastic coincidence. I was due to go on a weekend climbing trip to North Wales and on the Monday before my trip the new North Wales Bouldering guidebook was published. I’d been waiting a long time for this book.

The first edition had been out of print for years and it seemed that only the quick and lucky (and possibly wealthy) could buy a 2nd hand copy. From reading the periodic UKClimbing threads asking when the next edition would be published, I had the tantalising impression that the reason the second edition was still not available was because the author, Simon Panton, just kept finding more and more bouldering delights in North Wales that he could not leave out. Read more →

Roaches and Newstones Bouldering

July 31, 2017the Severe climber

I’ve been climbing at the Roaches many times and never bothered to look at the other climbing venues just next door. The Roaches is just so big and has so much great climbing that I never felt the need. I did some brilliant bouldering there on Saturday, climbing problems I had wanted to do for a while and pushing my grade a little. Unfortunately, the weather forecast for Sunday morning showed that it would begin and end with showers (plus “the chance of thunder”). I therefore looked through my guidebook for a bouldering venue with a very short walk-in so that I could walk-out quickly if need be and I found Newstones. It’s a small series of boulders and little buttresses a few miles from the Roaches. The rock has great friction and some strange veins running through it that I’ve never seen before on gritstone and which made for sharp edges and flakes. This helped make the bouldering interesting, varied and fun. Despite the great climbing and a pleasant location, Max and I had the place to ourselves the whole time we were there.

This weekend showed me that the big climbing venues are brilliant, but that I need to flick through the pages of my guidebooks more.

Me trying to climb Easy Groove (V0 4c) on The Grooves boulder at the Roaches. Seconds after this photo was taken my left foot slipped and I flew off the rock.

Climbing Joe’s Portholes (V0+ 5a) on Joe’s Boulder at the Roaches.

Me climbing the fun problem Slab Dancer (V0+ 5a) on the Upper Tier of the Roaches. The problems along here involve stopping and coming back down again before the climb turns from being a boulder problem into a solo rock climb.

The Upper Tier of the Roaches.

Me reaching the top of the Arch (V0+ 5a) problem on Pine Tree Slab on the Lower Tier of the Roaches.

Climbing Easy Slab Right-hand (VB) on the Top Block boulder at Newstones.

This is me trying to work out the best way of getting from the good footholds I’m standing on to the good hand holds at the top. The problem is Nutmeg (V0 4c) on the Hazel Barn boulder at Newstones.

Newstones crag in Staffordshire.

Me climbing Clammy Wall (V0 4c) on the Clammy Hands boulder at Newstones.

Stronghold Climbing Centre review

June 13, 2017the Severe climber

The Stonghold Climbing Centre has a cool name and describes itself as London’s largest indoor bouldering space. But is it any good?

London’s newest climbing wall is hidden away down a quiet street a few minutes walk from Tottenham Hale station. The Stronghold Climbing Centre is housed in an old warehouse that had previously been home to a charity recycling and reusing domestic furniture and appliances. These workshops have been replaced with a big, open and light climbing space and a range of good facilities. Read more →

Giddy Joint, Tendon and Muscle Balm review

June 8, 2017June 10, 2017the Severe climber

Giddy Joint, Tendon and Muscle Balm aims to help sooth the pain and tenderness you can get from climbing hard. It’s made with natural ingredients and has a kick of menthol. I’ve been trying it out to see if it keeps my hands in good shape.

Giddy Joint and Tendon Balm at Fontainebleau.

The idea is that applying Giddy Joint, Tendon and Muscle Balm relieves pain, stiffness or tenderness in muscles, joints and tendons affected by overuse and/or injury. A combination of natural (and nearly all organic) ingredients is meant to sink into the skin to help sooth and heal. Read more →

Back in the Woods – Bouldering in Fontainebleau

April 20, 2017May 19, 2017the Severe climber

I love bouldering at Fontainebleau. There are so many wonderful things about it. All those boulders scattered through a pretty wood. A stunning amount of climbing, in a wide variety of forms and often on boulders that weird, beautiful or both. The different characters of the climbing areas. The feeling of community among the climbers. The inland beaches that make for good landings and nice places to have a picnic. That it’s a giant, wooded playground for kids (more about that in my next post).

Fontainebleau’s not somewhere I get the chance to go very often and I always leave wanting to go back.

Me climbing problem 2 (Second Classe) on the orange circuit at Roche aux Sabots.

The Roche aux Sabots sector in the Trois Pignons area of Fontainebleau forest.

Me getting some chalk while climbing the pocket-filled orange 13 problem at Roche aux Sabots.

Me trying to do the crimping and smearing start of problem 7 on the orange circuit at Roche aux Sabots. This photo was taken by my 3 year old son.

The Canche aux Merciers area of Fontainebleau forest.

Traversing on problem 9 on the yellow circuit at Canche aux Merciers.

Climbing problem number 12 on the yellow circuit at Canche aux Merciers.

A creepy looking boulder in the Canche aux Merciers area of the Fontainebleau forest.

UPDATE: 19 May 2019 – I’ve written an expanded blog post about bouldering at Fontainebleau with a toddler that uses my experiences of this and earlier trips.

A Little Bit Green Around the Edges

March 9, 2017the Severe climber

Climbing in the Peak District at this time of year usually means three things for me. Hoping that it won’t be raining so that I can actually climb. Trying to avoid climbing on rock covered in damp, green lichen that it’s easy for my hand or foot to slip off. Plus, climbing at a level that I can manage and enjoy when I either have a cold or am recovering from one.

Climbing One Inch Arete (VB 4a) in the Little Quarry at Curbar Edge.

The rain that had poured down on the Peak District last Friday disappeared by Saturday to leave clear skies and brilliant sunshine. It was great weather for bouldering and I was really pleased that I could try out bouldering at Curbar Edge for the first time. Read more →

My Climbing 2016 in Pictures

December 31, 2016the Severe climber

Me in Coire na Ciste on my first day of the course.

Me in a bucket seat that I had dug and attached to a buried axe.

Walking through Worthy Wood.

Climbing the absolutely brilliant Gargoyle Flake (VS, 4c) at Bamford Edge.

Climbing the boulder problem Big Slab Right (V0+, 5a) on a wonderfully sunny day at Higgar Tor.

Me on the top of the pinnacle on Pinnacle Buttress at Dewerstone (thanks to Peter for the photo).

Climbing Monkey Crack (VDiff) at Stanage.

Bouldering on the Marsh Boulder at the RAC Boulders.

Me on the summit ridge of Eldir Fawr.

Leading Wall Corner (HVD, 4a) at Burbage.

Me leading Hollybush Gully Right Direct (Severe, 4a) at Stanage.

Bouldering above the beach of Lon Isallt Bay.

Me learning how to do a hoist

Me climbing on The Cube boulder at Bonehill.

Me climbing The Runnel problem at Hound Tor.

Walking on The Black Mountain.

1 Day Wet and 1 Day Dry Walking in the Brecon Beacons

December 15, 2016the Severe climber

I may not have been able to see very far on my walk up The Black Mountain (Y Mynydd Du) last Saturday, but I could still enjoy looking at the pretty colours of the grass.

Walking on The Black Mountain.

Marcus crossing Afon Twrch on The Black Mountain.

The Black Mountain and Fan Brycheiniog.

Broken limestone near Castell y Geifr.

On Sunday my circular walk over some of the classic peaks in the Brecon Beacons started by walking through Cwm Llwch.

The sun broke through the cloud as I walked along a ridge towards the summit of Corn Du.

The mountains looked very pretty when the cloud cleared enough to see the summits of Pen y Fan and Corn Du.

The view back to Llyn Cwm Llwch and Cwm Llwch from the side of Corn Du.

After climbing Corn Du, it was up and then down Pen y Fan.

Then up again on to Cribyn, which is where I got this view of Fan y Big. Frustratingly, something had gone a bit wrong with my knee and I was in a lot of pain and so I decided not to walk up Fan y Big that day and head back to the car.

Bone and Hound Bouldering

October 17, 2016the Severe climber

Leo climbing on Baby Slab at Bonehill.

Bonehill on Dartmoor.

The sun managing to stay out as I climb on the Warm-Up boulder at Bonehill.

Leo climbing on the Warm-Up boulder at Bonehill with Josh spotting him.

Me climbing on The Cube boulder at Bonehill.

Josh gets ready to make the final move on a problem on The Cube boulder at Bonehill.

Me climbing on The Perched Block at Hound Tor on Dartmoor..

Leo climbing on The Perched Block, with Josh spotting him. If you look closely, it seems like Josh’s shadow is giving Leo a helping hand.

Me climbing boulder problem The Runnel (3+) at Hound Tor.

Leo climbing The Runnel on the Top Hat boulder at Hound Tor.

This was a really fun problem, but it was much easier to get up than it was to get down again from the block at the top.

Helmets for Big Heads 2

October 14, 2016the Severe climber

Whether it’s due to excess brains or empty space, I have a larger than average head. This makes it hard to find headwear that fits. Anything marked “one size fits all” does not include me in the definition of “all”. This might be only an annoyance if I were not a rock climber. I need a helmet to protect my head from falling rocks, dropped bits of gear, smacking my head into a cliff when falling off and banging my head against overhangs (which is a habit of mine). If a helmet is to protect my head properly, then it has to fit properly. Unfortunately, there is only a small selection of helmets that will fit my big head.

Me climbing at Stanage in the Salewa Vega helmet.

My head is a bit over 62cm in circumference but most climbing helmets on the market only go up to a circumference of 61cm. I don’t think I’m the only climber whose head is bigger than 61cm in circumference and so I have written the following helmet guide for climbers with generous heads. Read more →